Overview

  • Main Attractions: Snorkelling and diving in Ningaloo Reef, Cape Range National Park, boat and land-based fishing
  • Best Time to Visit: September to November
  • Local Specialty: Diving with whale sharks
  • Travelled By: Rental car
  • Cost: $$$$
  • Duration of Stay: 1 week
  • Location: Western Australia

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Summary

While the World Heritage Ningaloo Reef has put Exmouth on the map, this town has a lot more to offer. Excellent land and boat based fishing, world-class snorkelling and diving sites, and hiking in the Cape Range National Park are just some of the attractions at this remote yet vibrant town.

Exmouth: Our Experience

 

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It is with trepidation that we drive from Shark Bay to Exmouth. There are numerous signs along the route. ‘Road subject to flooding’, ‘No water for next 200 kms’, ‘Wildlife ahead’ are just some of the road signs that catch our attention. It feels like we are driving to the end of the earth. We are only halfway up to the north-west tip of Australia so I wonder what further north would be like.

 

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The scenery isn’t stunning – red dirt all around us with plenty of sheep at intervals to keep us focussed on driving with care. We see a lot of dried wool on the ground so we can estimate that there have been a few accidents with sheep in the area. I see people driving at top speed even when there are sheep in the area and I wish they would take more care.

 

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We have been waiting to see emus and we are not disappointed when we get to Exmouth. There are emu families all over the place – at the side of the road, crossing the road, even standing in the middle of the road. They are daring and even wander through people’s properties looking for food.

One morning we came across an emu family with a chief emu, that was much taller than the others in the group, along with a bunch of baby emus. They had wandered into a family’s property and were being chased out by the family dog. It was quite funny to see the dog chasing the emu group and the chief emu putting up a fight to protect the group.

 

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Exmouth is the pinnacle of our journey along Australia’s Coral Coast. It is the northern-most we will be travelling to and the longest stay in any one area – an entire week.

We plan to spend a fair amount of our time fishing over the next week as Exmouth is the capital of fishing in Western Australia. Learmonth Jetty is one of the most popular land based fishing spots for leisure anglers and we spend a couple of hours a day fishing here.

 

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Turtle nesting season is between November and April every year. Green turtles, loggerhead turtles and hawksbill turtles nest on mainland beaches adjacent to Ningaloo Reef during this time of the year.

If you’re in Exmouth at this time of the year, and would like to take a night tour to watch sea turtle nesting on the beach, head to the Jurabi Turtle Centre.

 

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Exmouth has some spectacular and easy to access snorkelling locations. The Oyster Stacks and Turquoise Bay are the best among them.

With crystal clear waters and a huge concentration of fish, it is quite easy to spend the entire day snorkelling in these beautiful locations.

The beach at Turquoise Bay is supposed to be one of the best in Western Australia too.

 

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Cape Range National Park is a spectacular place filled with rugged limestone gorges and canyons on one side and pristine white sandy beaches on the other side. Easy walking trails at Yardie Creek, Shothole Canyon and Mandu Mandu Gorge take us to viewpoints with amazing views.

 

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On our return from Cape Range, we head to the Vlamingh Head lighthouse which overlooks Lighthouse Bay, part of the Ningaloo Reef. The Lighthouse was built in 1912 and stands on the northernmost tip of the Cape Range.

It is a steep and narrow road that winds uphill to the lighthouse. It would definitely be a dangerous drive trying to maneuver the narrow, winding road if there were other cars around, but the day is ending and we are the last ones to drive up to the lighthouse.

 

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Apart from the picturesque lookout across the Ningaloo Reef, the Vlamingh Head lighthouse is one of the few places in Australia where you can watch the sun rise and set.

It is New Years Eve and there is no better way than to end the year watching the sun go down on one of Australia’s most beautiful landscapes. There is no one else around so we get to have this magical moment to ourselves.

 

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On recommendation from the locals, we decide to have our New Year’s Eve dinner at Whalers Restaurant Exmouth. According to the locals, Whalers is supposed to be the best restaurant in town, famous for its superb seafood dishes.