Overview

  • Main Attractions: Kerala backwaters
  • Best Time to Visit: Late October to early March
  • Local Specialty: Houseboat cruises
  • Travelled By: Bus, houseboat
  • Cost: $$$
  • Duration of Stay: 3 days
  • Location: Kerala, India

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What We Liked

Drifting along the Kerala backwaters in a houseboat.

What We Disliked

Houseboats are a bit pricey.

Summary

Alleppey (Alapphuza) should be on everyone’s list of places to visit in India. It is a place that has got lost in time; you will feel like you’ve left India and gone to another place that is more laid-back, pristine and altogether beautiful. Kerala is called “God’s Own Country” and Alleppey is testimony to why it is called so.

Alleppey (Alapphuza): Our Experience

 

15th December, 2013 (Day 1)

 

We took the government bus from Munnar to Alleppey (Alapphuza) which took us a good half a day. We arrived into Alleppey as the sun was setting around 6:30 pm where we were approached by several entrepreneurial young men trying to sell us a room at their hostel. Alleppey houseboats are a big business and once you’re staying at their hotel, it is easier for them to sell you a houseboat tour. That’s where the money is! While I waited at the bus station, Graham diligently checked out the hotels and decided to go with Lemon Dew as it was centrally located.

 

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After a shower we took a walk along the canals in town to see the beautiful houseboats moored to the jetty. These smaller, colourful houseboats are designed to take tourists on short trips up and down the canals during the day.

We also went in search for some houseboat travel agencies in town. After speaking to a couple of shops, we had a better idea of what houseboat prices were and the facilities to be expected in a ‘Platinum’, ‘Gold’ and ‘Silver’ houseboat. We decided we had to see them first before we made a decision so we left it for the next morning.

 

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Instead, we walked across town to find a restaurant for dinner. We came upon Thaff Delicacy Restaurant, well known among the Western travellers for their delicious and affordable Keralan dishes. Here, we had the Crab Roast and Fish Pollichathu with Porothas which was absolutely delicious and really good value.

 

 

16th December, 2013 (Day 2)

 

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At about 8:00 am in the morning, we made our way to the main jetty in Alleppey to see the houseboats. They usually come in around 9:00 am and leave around 11:00 am after cleaning and stocking up on food. When we got to the jetty, there were about a hundred houseboats lined up like sardines. Some were moored to land while others were moored to the houseboat in front of it.

 

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We picked a couple of 1-bedroom houseboats to inspect and decided they were a little cramped for space inside. As we were walking along the jetty, we met the owner of a two-bedroom houseboat who took us inside and showed us around. The houseboat was perfect – two well-appointed air-con bedrooms with ensuite, fantastic dining area with fan, and the best part, an upper deck area with deck chairs. After our nod of approval, he told us that we could have it for the price of a 1-bedroom houseboat so we shook hands and paid him a deposit.

 

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After collecting our bags from the hostel, we returned to the houseboat and were one of the first to set off at 10:30 am. This was great as we beat the crowd of houseboats who followed later on. Along with three crew members (cook, butler and captain), we floated along the Kerala backwaters as if we had passed through the ‘Looking Glass’ and found an altogether more laid-back place.

Our overnight Alleppey houseboat trip was one of the highlights of our 10-week trip around India. Not only was it relaxing, we got to witness life along the Kerala backwaters and enjoy lip-smacking Keralan food from the comforts of a luxurious houseboat. We recommend anyone visiting South India to put Alleppey on their list and they will have the best time.

 

 

17th December, 2013 (Day 3)

 

At around 10:00 am our houseboat returned to the Alleppey jetty and we disembarked after a sad farewell to the crew. We headed in the direction of the bus station where we had first landed in Alleppey. From the bus station, we caught a bus to Varkala in the afternoon, leaving beautiful Alleppey behind.

 

Alleppey (Alapphuza) should be on everyone’s list of places to visit in India. It is a place that has got lost in time; you will feel like you’ve left India and gone to another place that is more laid-back, pristine and altogether beautiful. Kerala is called “God’s Own Country” and Alleppey is testimony to why it is called so.