Overview
- Signature Dishes: Kathi roll, Phuchka, Chole Bhature, Bhel puri, Ghugni, Chopped fruit
- Opening Times & Days: 10am to 10pm, daily
- Address: City centre
- Contact: N/A
- Reservation: No
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Summary
While street food is popular all over India, no city does street food as well or as varied as Kolkata (Calcutta). Kolkata street food is so popular with both young and old that it can be found around every street corner, particular in the city centre. If you are not used to eating street food, I would advice you to stay away from it. If you have a strong stomach, I wish you a wonderful gastronomical journey on the Kolkata street food train.
Kolkata Street Food
If you’re visiting Kolkata and wondering not only what to eat but what they all mean, here’s a list of popular Kolkata street food options with a detailed description of each food.
1. Kathi Rolls
Perhaps the most popular street food in Kolkata, the Kathi Roll originated in Kolkata. Its original form was a kathi (stick) kebab enclosed in a paratha, but over the years many variants have evolved all of which now go under the generic name of Kathi Roll. Today, pretty much any filling rolled up in any kind of Indian flatbread is called a kathi roll.
The Kati Roll is said to have started its life from the Nizam Restaurant in Kolkata, a popular eatery founded in 1932 that sold kebabs and parathas and other Mughlai dishes in the heart of Kolkata. There are many stories about how exactly the roll got started. Some centre around hurried office commuters who wanted something quick and portable, some mention British babus who were too fastidious to touch the kabab. Nizam enjoyed a virtual monopoly of this method of serving a kabab for decades, but it eventually became commonplace in Kolkata and today you can find a ‘Roll shop’ any and everywhere.
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Traditionally, a Kathi Roll is a Kati Kebab wrapped in a layered paratha. The paratha is typically dough that is flattened with a rolling pin and partly fried in oil on a tawa (hot iron plate). Kati Kebabs are chicken or mutton (lamb) chunks marinated in spices and cooked on skewers (the “kati”) over coals in a sigri. When the roll is being prepared, these are taken off the skewers and tossed with onions, chillies and sauces in the tawa, before being put in a thin strip in the centre of the paratha. At this stage, most roll vendors will add various kinds of sauces, a dash of vinegar, a squeeze of lime, sometimes a shake of chaat masala and maybe some julienned carrots. The whole thing is then rolled up in paper and served.
Of course, Nizam Restaurant is the best place to try some Kathi Rolls since it originated there. They still make some of the best kathi rolls in town. Alternatively, there are a couple of Roll shops on Park Street that do a huge turnover of kathi rolls any time of the day. Try the one at Karnani Mansion or the one next to Apeejay House for delicious kathi rolls.
Kathi rolls can be had as a snack; they also make for a great lunch or dinner option.
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2. Phuchkas
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Another hugely popular Kolkata street food is the Phuchka. Commonly referred to as a phuchka in Kolkata, it is known by other names in other cities across India. For example, it is called Panipuri in Mumbai and Golgappa in New Delhi. In Kolkata, Phuchkas are considered to be the king of this variety of snacks, compared to its cousins like golgappas or panipuris.
It consists of a round, hollow bread, fried crisp and filled with a mixture of flavored water, tamarind chutney, chili, chaat masala, potato, onion and chickpeas. It is generally small enough to fit completely into one’s mouth. The filling is made by lightly mashing boiled potatoes with black salt, spices, a generous portion of tamarind pulp and chilli. The tamarind water Tetul Jol is made by mixing tamarind and spices and making a light and tart liquid with water.
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In the suburbs of Kolkata, phuchka walas (men selling phuchkas) come out after dark and stand on the side of the road selling phuchkas to the residents. In the city centre, you can find phuchka walas during the day especially around the busy and popular areas like New Market.
Phuchkas are an acquired taste and not everyone will like them. Due to the tamarind water that accompanies them, phuchkas have a salty and tangy flavour. If you prefer, you can avoid drinking the water and eat the phuchka on its own. Alternatively, you can ask for sweet water (mishti or meetha pani) which tastes quite nice.
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3. Chole Bhature
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Another popular Kolkata street food is Chole Bhature. Originating from Delhi, it not only makes for a great breakfast option but it can also be had for lunch. It is a combination of chole (spicy chick peas) and fried bread called bhatoora. Chole bhature are served with onions, carrot pickle, green chutney and achaar (Indian pickle).
You can usually find street stalls selling Chole Bhature around the city centre especially near offices in the morning and early afternoon.
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4. Bhel Puri
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Originating from Mumbai, Bhel Puri is a savoury Indian snack. It is made from puffed rice and Sev (a fried snack shaped like thin noodles made from besan flour) mixed with potatoes, onions, Chat masala and chutney. Other commonly used ingredients include tomatoes, boiled potatoes and chilis added to the base.
Different chutneys impart a sweet,tangy or spicy flavour. There are two popular chutneys used: a dark brown sweet one made mainly from dates and tamarind and a green spicy chutney made from coriander leaves and green chillies.
In the suburbs of Kolkata, bhel puri walas (men selling bhel puri) come out after dark and stand on the side of the road selling bhel puri to residents. In the city centre, you can find street shops selling bhel puri during the day especially around the busy and popular areas like New Market.
5. Ghugni
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Ghugni is a popular Bengali snack food that is also available on the streets of Kolkata. It is usually an evening snack but can be had at any time of the day. Usually, dried yellow peas is cooked in a gravy in the traditional eastern Indian style. It can be served with a variety of options; on the street, tomatoes, onions and chillis are popular accompaniments that add a lot of flavour and depth to this already tasty dish.
As with most snack foods found on the streets, most street stalls open in the evening in the suburbs; in the city centre, you can find several street stalls, including men selling ghugni, around the busy and popular areas like New Market.
6. Chopped Fruit
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Last but definitely not the least is Kolkata’s version of chopped fresh fruit. This street food option consists of a medley of chopped fresh fruits that are in season. To heighten the taste of the fruits, some spicy salt is added to the fruit which gives it a very different flavour. If you don’t want salt added to your fruit, just let the man know.
Fruit vendors can be found all over the city especially in the streets around the city centre. Look out for them near offices and highly dense areas like the New Market.
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While Kolkata street food is unmissable and must be tried to have a true culinary experience in Kolkata, care must be taken if you are not used to eating street food. Due to its location on the dirty, dusty streets, and with unhygienic preparation of the food, it’s easy to get stomach diarrhea. If you are not used to eating street food, I would advice you to stay away from it as tempting as it looks. On the other hand, if you have a strong stomach, I wish you a wonderful gastronomical journey on the Kolkata street food train.
Why are Phuchkas ranked number 2? Clearly they are the best snack food in Kolkata!
For vegetarians, Phuchkas are the number 1. But there is something so good about the Kathi rolls that puts them into the conversation for the best street food snack world wide. Possibly the multiple textures and flavors present in each roll. One of the things that brings Phuchkas down in our opinion is the hygiene factor.