Re-emerging as a bastion of Hindu tradition, art and creative culture, Jaffna is an intriguing, unimposing and most untouristed place that’s a thoroughly rewarding place to invest a few days discovering Sri Lankan Tamil culture. Here, everything seems different, especially the language: the rapid-fire staccato of spoken Tamil is a real change from singsong Sinhala. So too the cuisine: singularly spiced and, in season, complemented by legendary mangoes. And perhaps even the light: it has a distinctive quality, reflected as deep garden greens in Jaffna’s suburbs. Revel in the uniqueness of Jaffna, including the towering, ornate Hindu temples. And don’t miss Jaffna’s isolated islands and their end-of-the-earth appeal.